What is a generator inlet power box? A generator inlet box is a device that allows a portable generator to connect safely and effectively to a house or building’s electrical system. It’s an essential component for using a portable generator during power outages or for remote power needs.

It’s terribly boring when the power goes out, especially in these days when most homes are chock full of electrical devices. When the power goes out, we’re basically left with nothing to do.

It’s why many households these days have the forethought to get themselves a power generator, so they’ll have a backup in case of any power outage. It’s a good idea, when a powerful storm is coming your way.

To get the power from the generator, you’ll have to connect the generator to the manual transfer switch.

That’s not always convenient, especially as the manual transfer switch is set next to the electrical panel and the electrical panel isn’t easily accessible. You have to remember that the generator has to stay outdoors, because it emits dangerous fumes.

This is where the generator inlet box comes in. It works as the connection point to let the generator’s electrical power into your home. Basically, it serves as the electrical outlet for your house when there’s a power outage.

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50-Amp Generator Inlet Box

What this means is that you can supply as much as 12,000 watts into your home. That’s great if you have lots of appliances at home that require plenty of watts.

This is certainly the case when you have central air conditioning, or each room in the house has its own air conditioner. In the height of summer near the equatorial regions, you may really need air conditioning to avoid heat stroke.

With 50 amps, then you can also run your home almost normally. You can run the fridge, along with the ovens and all the other kitchen appliances.

You’re also able to power your entertainment appliances, including your home theater. That way, you can sit back and relax, even when the main grid electrical power is out. It’s as if there’s no power outage.

Of course, this is possible with a more powerful generator. And that means you paid more at the acquisition stage. Remember also, that on the other hand you’ll also have to consume more fuel along the way.

This is a viable option if you have plenty of spare fuel and you’re fairly confident that regular grid electrical power will be restored soon.

High Kilowatts Appliances: Do You Need to Use Them

Since you have 12,000 watts to use, you may think that it’s alright to use just about any appliance in your home at any time you want.

That’s a rather dangerous attitude, since you may forget that you have a wattage limit to deal with. In addition, you’re consuming more fuel for your generator.

The smart thing to do is to prioritize:

Start with,

Must-Use Appliances

These include not just your central HVAC seating but also your window air conditioner and your electric space heater. In some areas and for some seasons, air conditioning and heating are crucial not just for your comfort but for your health.

However, if you can actually survive on using electric fans during the summer, then use them instead of using the air conditioner. This is especially true at night, when it’s not so hot at all.

Include the fridge and freezer here, if you have food that you don’t want to spoil. However, if the freezer only contains ice cream, you may just want to finish the ice cream off so you can unplug the freezer.

Somewhat Important Appliances

Some people say that they need their counter top microwave, especially when they have lots of TV dinners in the freezer. Some also insist that they need their electric coffee maker.

Just be aware that the countertop microwave oven and the electric coffee maker are both high wattage appliances. Try to avoid using them. You may want to get an affordable pour-over device that doesn’t need electricity, if you really need your real coffee.

Not Important at All

These are the other high-wattage appliances that you should really avoid using during a power outage. These aren’t necessary at all, and there’s no good reason to use them at this time.

• Hair dryer
  
• Garbage compactor
  
• Electric tea kettle
  
• Toaster / toaster oven

30-Amp Generator Inlet Box

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This is the better option if you’re concerned mostly with necessities. It will certainly suffice if you’re not running your air conditioners, and it’s the option people get when they don’t have any air conditioners at home.

With up to 7,000 watts at the most, you should be able to run your fridge so the food won’t spoil, along with your radio and the necessary lights for your home.

It may even be possible to recharge your smartphone or laptop, so that you have some entertainment options.

This is the best option for emergencies, especially when you’re not really sure when the power will come back and you don’t have a lot of spare fuel for the generator.

You don’t really consume as much fuel with this option, so you can stretch your fuel supply.

It’s best to conserve the energy for the essentials only. If you can power the fridge and charge the lights and electronics, then you can hunker down without too much discomfort.

You don’t even have to power the house’s electrical lights. If you have a lamp and flashlights, you can live with those easily enough until help arrives or the power comes back.

What Electrical Devices to Plug In?

It’s best that you prepare a list of emergency appliances and lights you’d want to plug in for your generator inlet box, when a power outage occurs.

In this case, you’ll want to plug in the fridge, and also judiciously plug in any must-have HVAC system. You can also plug in the PC, but only if you need it for work. Plug in the radio for news. You can also use the TV, but try to limit the number of hours you use it.

GE 30-Amp Generator Power Inlet Box

This is ANSI-certified and UL-listed, so you’re reasonably sure that it’s safe to use. It’s made with galvanized steel, along with a coating of electro-deposition paint to make it corrosion-resistant.

With its single enclosure, it’s protected from weather damage and normal field use. It even has a rolled edge door for greater cord protection.

This carries the GE brand, and it’s truly reliable with a sterling reputation. It’s great for indoor use, since you don’t even have to worry about the elements.

Reliance 30-Amp Generator Power Inlet Box

This is also nicely designed for outdoor installation in an open area.

It uses rain-tight NEMA 3R PBN-Series steel, coated with anti-corrosive powder-coat paint.

The front entry inlet also features a weatherproof spring cover, which automatically closes when not in use so that it’s protected from the elements.

The special patented design also provides ample wiring space, while the face of the box is removable for easier placement and wiring.

It’s quite convenient to work with, as the design eliminates various annoying factors when you’re trying to install the generator power inlet box.

Installing Generator Power Inlet Box

The easiest way to do this is to hire a reputable electrician to do this for you. You can just sit back and relax, while you’re reasonably sure that the installation will be done right.

It doesn’t take too long (only several hours or so), and it’s not all that expensive either.

Of course, you can do it yourself if you want. Just follow the following steps:

11 Steps to Setup your Power Inlet Box

1. Start by finding the right outdoor location for the generator inlet box.

First, it should be set at least 5 feet away from any opening to your home, such as any doors and windows. Don’t forget that the generator emits fumes that can enter the home, and these fumes are colorless so you may not see it happening.

Then you should also make sure that the generator inlet box is set at least 2 feet off the ground.

2. Isolate Power Sources

Before you deal with any wiring, make sure you can do so safely. That means you should first turn off circuit breakers. If you’re still using a fuse box, remove the fuse.

This is not enough. Take a step further and ensure no one else but you can actually turn on the power sources to energize the circuit.

3. Remove the Front Cover

Now remove the front cover of the unit, along with the screws that secure it to the bottom plate. At the back of the cabinet, you’ll find probably 3 or 4 holes.

You can use the mounting screws (that come with the unit) with these holes to mount the power inlet box to the wall.

4. Install the Wiring

Use the knockouts that come with the unit to install the wiring. Just make sure you use only the approved wiring material for the area, though that usually means using only copper wire.

5. Drill a Hole Through the Wall

When you use a conduit, drill a hole through the wall to let it into the interior of your home and connect to the junction box.

If you haven’t installed the junction box yet, then install one near the transfer switch.

6. Seal the Hole

Insert the conduit into the hole on the wall, and the wiring into the conduit. Use sealant to seal the hole afterwards, to make sure that water can’t get through.

7. Terminate the Wiring in the Power Inlet Box

Now inside the power inlet box, attach the bare wire to the green lead. Use a wire nut to secure it.

8. Terminate the White Wire

Connect the white wire to the nickel-plated screw and the hot wires to the terminals. Again, use the wire nuts to be certain that the connections are secure. At this point, the wiring is already connected to the inlet.

9. Terminate Wiring at the Junction Box

Extend the wire into the house, towards the junction box. Follow the proper color coding when you connect the wires in the junction box.

That means connect the white wire to the neutral wire, black to black and red to red. Don’t forget to connect the bare wire to the ground wire.

10. Secure the Wires Neatly

Use the wire nuts to secure the connections, and fold the wires inside the junction box.

11. Close the Front Cover

You’re just about done, and you’re left with only the finishing touches. Fold the wires connected to the inlet.

Reattach the bottom plate, and use the screws to set it in place. Close the front cover, turn on the circuit breaker, and test the generator inlet box connection to confirm that it works.

FAQs

Why are there several inlet box amperage options?

Generator power inlet boxes may come in different versions, such as 50-amp, 30-amp, and even 20-amp.

That’s because you have to make sure that the inlet box amperage matches that of the transfer switch and the power cord.

Overall, the determinant for the rating of each of these items is dependent on your load requirements and the size of generator you need.

Do you always need a generator inlet box?

No, not always. You don’t need one if you have an easy way connecting the portable generator directly to the transfer switch that’s located next to the electrical panel.

If you can use a 25-foot power cord to connect the generator directly into the transfer switch, then you can do away with the generator inlet box.

When the power goes out, now what?

It’s actually simple. All you have to do to get some power back is to run your portable generator.

Then you only have to connect the power cord of your appliance to your portable generator outlet, while the other end is plugged into the generator inlet box.

It’s like plugging in your outdoor Christmas lights.

Conclusion

Although you can do everything yourself, we really recommend that you consult a professional electrician for the job. Their expertise lets them pick the right type of generator inlet box, and find the right place to set to.

You can also be reassured that the installation goes without a hitch, so you can reliably have power from the generator when there’s a power outage.

Still, if you’re a firm DIY fan, then it’s entirely possible to do it yourself. Just make sure you double check that you have the right type of generator inlet box, and you install it properly.

Once that’s done, it’s extremely satisfying to enjoy power even when the neighborhood loses electrical power from the grid.